Researchers at the University of California, Los Angeles have developed a sunscreen formulation that leaves fewer white marks on the skin. It relies on unusually shaped zinc oxide particles. This could improve acceptance of sun protection, especially on dark skin.
Zinc oxide is a mineral filter that blocks and diffuses some ultraviolet radiation. It is valued for its stability, but its particles often give the skin a white or grayish appearance. This visible effect is a deterrent for many users.
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The new formulation uses particles shaped like tetrapods, with several branches. According to the team, this geometry covers the skin differently than the usual spherical particles. The aim is to limit the scattering of visible light while maintaining UV protection.
The tests reported by the researchers involve an SPF 30 formulation. They show a reduction in whitening compared to comparable preparations, with no observed decrease in protection.
The performance of a sunscreen depends not only on the filter used. Particle size, distribution in the formula, amount applied, and water resistance also matter. Any formulation intended for the market will therefore need to undergo regulatory and dermatological testing.
This research does not change sun protection recommendations. Exposure should be limited during peak hours, and a product should be applied in sufficient quantity and reapplied. Choosing a better-accepted texture can however help maintain regular use.
The researchers now hope to adapt their process to truly usable products. The stability, cost, and performance of these formulas will still need to be verified outside the lab.